Danieli's has good food for reasonable prices, but the ambiance leaves a great deal to be desired. They've spent too much money on silk flowers and not nearly enough on simple improvements like new carpeting and washrooms. The food and portioning however, is above average and if you can tolerate the decor the food is definitely worth a visit. 

We were greeted fairly quickly upon entering the restaurant and the host accommodated our request for a seat by the window. While we were not offered cocktails, water did arrive promptly as did our gin and tonics once we asked for them. Our server listed the specials and we went about making our selections. Our server was not the most engaging fellow, but did his job well and we were happy with the service.

The menu is a good length, with enough selection, but not so much as to overwhelm the kitchen. I was disappointed to learn they were out of the fungi ripieno - a Portobello mushroom stuffed with chicken liver, blue cheese and bacon. Generally speaking, the menu is a good blend of familiar favourites, combined with creative departures from the ordinary classic Italian menu.

We started with the Calabrese salad ($7) and the carpaccio ($10). A Calabrese salad (or caprese, as it's often labelled) is always a good mark of an Italian restaurant. A simple salad of tomato, bocconcini cheese, basil and olive oil, freshness and quality shortcomings become apparent immediately. Not the case today, not only was the cheese lovely, but the tomatoes were the ripest I've had since last summer.  Similarly, the olive oil had a distinct flavour and the balsamic vinegar was of good quality. The carpaccio was also a winner. Rare beef tenderloin, sliced as to be translucent, I was delighted by the light dressing. Too often I order the dish to find it smothered it aioli. Unless you're trying to hide something, this dish should be served plain, with a little shaved parmesan, black pepper and olive oil.

For our mains Ryan had the Cioppino ($21) and I had the duck special ($24). I love Cioppino, but am always suspicious that fish stews are 'yesterday's fish'. In this case, I was proven wrong, the fish was fresh, the selection good and the tomato base a nice medium-body consistency, with a strong saffron flavour. My only hesitation being upon the mussels, which are out of season at the moment. Ryan commented they were not the best he's had.

My duck, served with a sour-cherry demi-glace, roasted potatoes and vegetables was good, albeit cooked longer than I would have liked. The server said it came medium-rare, I said good and it arrived medium. No big deal, I have low expectations for duck doneness in North America. The demi was good and the vegetables properly cooked and nicely seasoned.

For dessert Ryan had the Danieli's special dessert ($7.5). A concoction of whipped cream, praline, vanilla custard and other sweet things. Even I, a notorious dessert critic, enjoyed the contrasting textures and flavours. Ryan of course, was delighted.

The wine list is a good length for the style of restaurant. The half litre/glass selection is pretty pedestrian, but I was happy to see some acceptably interesting options in the bottle lists.

The problems Danieli's needs to address  are overwhelmingly aesthetic. The restaurant decor is overbearing and is in the face of some desperately needed renovations - lots of chipped paint, unusual upholstery choices and of course, the carpets and washrooms I mentioned earlier. Same goes for menu design and table settings. The menus are printed on shabby looking computer templates with awkward looking graphics and the table settings and glassware are mis-matched and in some cases a bit gaudy (see the photo of my duck).

Danieli's is definitely a place to go for the food - it's good quality, reasonably interesting and decent value. 

Value of Food 84/100

Quality of Food 84/100

Wine and Beverage 67/100

Service 73/100

Ambiance 52/100

Average 72/100

Reviewed June 8, 2006